Usually a by pass damper in the exhaust flue is only opened to ease a cold start then closed to drive the hot gases through the channels in the thermal mass, then rejoin the flue beyond the bypass. If yours must be opened to burn at all there might be something restricting the channels. Even a properly managed masonry heater will accumulate dust in those channels and must be vacuumed out every few years or so.
In the fire box too much ash can restrict the draught, (air intake) our door (with integrated draught) has a warning in German not to allow too much ash to accumulate. Some systems have an ash drawer that must be emptied to keep the air flowing.
I re-split our wood quite small with a kinetic electric splitter. It’s so fast and fun it’s hard not to turn everything to kindling:-) I pile 25 to 35 pounds of <20% moisture wood in a ‘crib’ (ie. piled criss cross), with about an inch between sticks and with the largest pieces at the bottom. Some kindling and a fire starter on top and Claire and I sit back and enjoy.
You might find a stove mason in your area to consult with at https://masoncontractors.org/author/masonry-heater-association-of-north-america/
Re: Savings
In the fire box too much ash can restrict the draught, (air intake) our door (with integrated draught) has a warning in German not to allow too much ash to accumulate. Some systems have an ash drawer that must be emptied to keep the air flowing.
I re-split our wood quite small with a kinetic electric splitter. It’s so fast and fun it’s hard not to turn everything to kindling:-) I pile 25 to 35 pounds of <20% moisture wood in a ‘crib’ (ie. piled criss cross), with about an inch between sticks and with the largest pieces at the bottom. Some kindling and a fire starter on top and Claire and I sit back and enjoy.
You might find a stove mason in your area to consult with at https://masoncontractors.org/author/masonry-heater-association-of-north-america/
Cheers, Rob Rhodes